Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Status Report after 7 months in India

Why did I maintain hiatus for the last 4 months? Simple answer I do not want anybody to be disheartened by conditions in India, I do not want to be the bearer of bad news about the place I call my home.

My opinions may vary widely from any of yours, but I have to write about the facts, and leave you with the power of decision. Things that strike me on my face everyday of our lives in India:

- Life is a fleeting presence; you risk it everyday, every moment, on the roads, in your cars, in your office space. You fight to be ahead, you fight to reach destination A, you fight to cross the road, you fight to prove yourself in your jobs, you fight to keep both sets of your parents happy, you fight to keep your relatives happy, you fight for the basic amenities of life.
If you slow down, you better start all over again in this rat race.
Below is a beautiful picture from Flickr, which gives meaning to all my words.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/akashb/2302619240/in/set-72157603800257679/

- Living a good life can be expensive in India. We live in Defence Colony, Indiranagar, Bangalore; our rent is 18.5K for a 25 year old 2 bed 2 bath apartment. This apartment does not have power backup, air conditioning, parking space, gym or a decent sized kitchen, bathtubs or good wardrobes. Why do we still pay so much…..because we can sleep peacefully in silence at night, we can walk to restaurants, we can walk in the neighbourhood admiring bungalows worth 7-10crores .... unthinkable. If we decide to want all the above in an apartment it ranges between 40-70K per month. If I did not hear this for myself, I would pass it as hype and exaggeration, but this is the cost of life in Bangalore.

- What to do for entertainment?
Choices are so few, you would wonder what did I do before I went to live in US of A.
Here are the options:
  • Bangalore boasts of 4 decent sized malls which seems to be packed to its capacity even on an off-day. Slowly the single shop concept seems to be a rarity.
  • Good food and great restaurants dots the landscape of Bangalore, but the shock comes when a meal + drinks for 2 can cost you anywhere from 1-3K, depending on if you want to skip appetizer and dessert
  • Movies in all languages to choose from, but where are the multiplexes. Bangalore has 2 good multiplex: Inox and PVR with 5-7 screens each. There may be 2 more multiplexes in remote corners of Bangalore. Going out for a movie can not be an impulsive decision, especially on weekends. Do not forget the multiplexes are in the mall, so are good restaurants and obviously the shops window shopping; hence Entertainment = Mall.
  • India's greatest gift: family, friends, neighbours. Family would work out, only if you relocate to the same city where they live; for us it had to be Calcutta or Hyderabad. Calcutta could work as an option if we could find jobs and the bandhs would stop. You want your family, at the same time you do not want too much of it, hence Hyderabad was ruled out as an option as Nandan's family, extended family and anybody he knows is there and I hate the heat.
  • Friends, I have a few in Bangalore, but things change over time, priorities change, topics of conversation change. We have come to realize, we are our best friends; although we have friends in US or in India, we have stopped our eternal search.
  • Neighbours, good for small talk and a human face for Nandan, when I am travelling.

- My work which is 50% of my life; sucks big time. I am in nanotechnology, the next revolution, this is what sucks as I can see the huge amount of money Indian government is diverting towards nano growth, for buildings and equipment. But somehow they have forgotten to take into account the human intelligence required to think and innovate through these equipments, grants and infrastructure. You cannot teach a person to think innovative, be out of the box overnight ... this is what you gift your kids / a generation through education. There is always a rare few who are great in their research, who are exposed to western research standards...but can a handful change the face of Indian research, especially when they are not in the position of power at the various departments doling out money for the future of science.

Apart from science, the business aspects are so politicized. The fight is always on for who is the Boss. Work culture is something I would trade over anything from the western world. Inefficiency is the core issue, as you do not work for the pleasure of working, but to fulfill your obligation to your boss. Nobody takes up the responsibility as you are not appreciated for your efforts. The basic principal of business: Reward for a task well done ... seems to be absent.

- What do you consider basic amenities in life, and maybe those are luxury items in India?

Roads are horrendous, there are pot holes, no lanes and the road belongs to everybody: maruthis, auto rickshaws, bullock carts, stray dogs, cows, Mercedes and most important the People who can walk and cross roads wherever and whenever they want ... as they rule the roads. Driving is exhaustive. Taking an auto rickshaw could leave you minus a few decibels in your hearing ability. Heat, dust and pollution does not require mentioning, as they are what India is, comes free with the package deal.

Restrooms, Toilets or bathrooms: whatever you call, seems to be an absent concept. For men it does not matter, as any wall is fine; for women, you better learn to have control. Government has "Sulabh Sauchalays - Easy Toilet", but they stink from a mile away. This is something many realize as a basic necessity, but you need a leader to execute it in a country of billion+ people.

Electricity, comes and goes as it pleases. Is a problem, as you have Internet dependent on it, and you cannot work from home. The mosquitoes and heat rules, as you do not have the power of Good night machines or fans. Aquagaurd water purifier stops, but I guess I should store water.

Good schools and hospitals, you can access them if you have good money. I should acknowledge I can get both of these facilities, but these should be for All and not for the selected few.

Enough for now, as these things has left me salivating for US lifestyle. To sum it all up, we can run away from all our dissatisfactions, but it tugs on our heart to see India in such a condition ... end of the day, this is where I am from, this is my home, and I will always want to return even after spending years in USA. This is why every time you talk to an Indian, some part of him/her will always want to be in this soil at any cost.

5 comments:

Suneer said...

A very touching post there Taniya...

radhika said...

Taniya...What ever you said was true at the end of the day you want to be home....nice blog

Dilip said...

well written and so true..

Budding Blogger said...

Well...look at Africa..pick any country..compare it to the US or UK. Look at an ape and compare him to a Human Being. The process is called EVOLUTION.
While most of ur views and comments on India are true Taniya..what u have to understand is that India is evolving.. India is coming to its own.
Compare India to what we were 10 years back and I am sure u will understand what I am talking about. What we need is critisicm...but constructive. Things are bad in India...but what have u done about it...to improve it. It is very simple to pick faults....try rectifying them.
If one of us..then two..then five..then thusand and finally our whole HUGE population comes down to making India a better place...I think there is no force in the world which can stop us.
I'd say...lets start now..lets start U n me....to make India what we desire...

kittu said...

Hello,
Finally I get to read your blog... interesting!
To begin with I have always dreamed of getting a PHD and returning to India. I will be doing so in a few months from now... I see more opportunities in India than ever and the life, people, etc., everything attracts me. Ofcourse life isn't as streamlined as it is in US. Well if everything works smoothly, I guess it gets a little boring... ain't it?
In one of your first posts you mentioned about family is the reason to go back to India. Well, a good reason I say, I am so excited to be with them.
I think the cost of living is the same for what YOU earn in India... why do you expect to pay 1/100 of your salary to live in a comfortable place. 1/5 to 1/4 is very common in US and in big cities you pay that for a cubby hole as I will doing so for the next few months :(
some of the things you mentioned like power backup don't exist in US at many places... for an indian life style why do i need them in the first place... let me put a simple request in US... a decent indian grocery or restaurant...
GOOD FOOD NEVER COSTS THAT MUCH IN INDIA... if you choose a brand or location you end up paying for the rent and decoration required by the restaurant...
Nanotechnology is a buzz word... the fundamentals remain the same... my belief is work sucks if it is monotonous and so is life...
People to work don't come overnight because you start spending money, programs have to be built over time and we in India lack that completely...at lease they are starting things now... nanotechnology in my opinion is not just doing something at nanometer scale, etc... problems with any new technology persist when you dont know why and what you are doing exactly with no long term goal in mind... money spent on infrastructure is not a waste... as is evident from the number of applications received by institutions with better infrastructure (ask your friends at IISc and IITB)... things are changing in India on the research front and I welcome the change... over 200 PhDs from US joined Indian institutions in the past 5 years... that is a significant number... their resumes are impressive and they are motivated people...
not working for pleasure is not true... i am sure IIT profs are not working for the paltry 25K they receive every month...
GOOD SCHOOLS AND GOOD HOSPITALS COST MONEY IN US BIG TIME...AND THEY ARE NOT FOR ALL IN US... THINK US MEDICAID...
i seem to think from your opinions that may be you expected too much out of India on your return... as long as your remain an outsider in India you wont appreciate the way of life there... hope you stay back and we can meet up sometime :)...
(excuse the spelling mistakes)...